Tuesday 28 October: Fes

After an ordinary night and an even more ordinary breakfast, we were introduced to Khadija, our local guide for the day. She was fabulous and showed us a steady stream of highlights of Fes and shared some of her cultural insights … she’s also a mean negotiator helping a number of us to secure a better price on our purchases.

Onto the bus and off to the Royal Palace..

Royal Palace gates
Khadija
Hand beaten bronze, made without stencil or pattern… all by eye
Hand made ceramics in traditional colours:  
– indigo = for knowledge (Fes is the knowledge capital of Morocco)
– green = for Islam because paradise is green (Fes is the religious capital of Morocco)
– red= Berber history, (it is the national colour)
Street in the Jewish area, strong Spanish influence
Wedding gift carriers. Gifts are traditionally carried from husbands house to wife’s and not displayed (for modesty). Traditional carriers (top row) are covered and have no glass (bottom row modern)
Black soap made from olives (the byproduct of making olive oil)
Clay traditionally used for washing hair
Storks
One of the entry gates to the Royal Palace
View from the fort of the medina
We could see all three parts of the city from here… 8th century world heritage listed Medina (old town), 14th century section and 20th century ‘new town’ that rings the whole city

Ceramics cooperative outside the medina:

Grey clay is the best quality, superior to terracotta
Foot powered pottery wheel
The kiln
Soldering silver onto items
Hand made ceramic mosaic tiles
Template then cut
Creating a ceramic item
Hand painted pottery

Into the medina…

Some very narrow, sometimes dark, streets
Looking up
Jojoba
Dates, medjool are the best quality
Making ‘filo’ pastry
Cooked on the hot stone ‘blob’
and served with jam… delicious
Into the madrassa, the Koranic school before university
14th century University library … has over 40,000 books. The University itself is the oldest still operationing university in the world and now focuses on religion, educating Imans.

Out to the leather tannery… (with a bouquet of mint to help with the smells)

The river with skins drying as we approach
The white vats contain water, limestone (calcium) and pigeon poo (ammonia)
All dyes used are natural… yellow from turmeric
Tough work!
Demonstrating the quality of the leather with a cigarette lighter … it doesn’t burn

Back to the medina…

Newer part restored after devastating fires in 1954
At lunch, Artwork of medina
… first course
Dessert (mains were tajines or couscous)
Moulay Idriss II mausoleum, imans sitting by his tomb
Hand beaten bronze

Visit to a silk factory…

Silk made from agave leaves
The looms
Dessert scarf styling technique… Sarah’s ready to go!

It was home for a rest (and a new room for us). Some of us had booked to top the day off with a trip to the hammam … now that was an experience!

It starts with a massage, then sauna, bathing and hair wash, scrub, then jacuzzi. I thought we could wear our bathers… but a combination of my having no idea what was going to happen, absolutely no common language, and their assumption (I think) that I had some clue what was going on … saw me stripped bare and handed what looked like a face mask that was in fact the disposable panties (and I use that term very loosely) I was expected to wear. OK I thought, this is just for the massage bit… how wrong I was. After a massage (that included areas I had never had massaged before) I was given a robe and escorted down to the bathing area… where Loie and I got to know each other a lot better than we had ever expected to as we saunad together, were bathed, scrubbed and oiled extensively before sharing a jacuzzi… all wearing our little “face masks”. By this stage mine looked more like dental floss… poor Loie, I think she’ll need therapy!

Beth (Butt) joined us in the wet area for her bathing etc while we were in the jacuzzi, but she had insisted on wearing her bathers… clever girl. However, watching her proceed through the steps, I did smile when I saw the hammam lady’s hand disappearing down the back then front of the bathers to ensure she got the full treatment!

That said, despite all that, and once I’d parked my western inhibitions and gone with the flow (what else can you do!), it was quite an enjoyable experience … but not one I’ll rush back for!

Cocktails at dinner… thank heavens!

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