Friday 30 October Toledo

A day of sightseeing and there are so many interesting and beautiful buildings… with more churches/synagogues/mosques per square metre than anywhere we’ve been!

Toledo is an ancient city set on a hill above the plains of Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain. Gary reckons that it is reminiscent of the stunning hilltop towns in Italy. The capital of the region, it’s known for the medieval Arab, Jewish and Christian monuments in its walled old city. It was also the former home of painter El Greco.

La Mancha (as in Man of La Mancha) also gives its name to Manchego cheese, amongst other local food specialties.

This is the 4th region I’ve visited so far this trip… Galicia with Beth, the Catalunya (Barcelona), Valencia (Valencia & Alicante), now Castilla- La Mancha.

Before we headed out this morning we went to the terrace at the top of our hotel…

Pretty impressive views across the Old Town
Also in our hotel (our wing)

We bought a tourist pass that gave us entry to seven places to visit, and we capped that off with the Cathedral.

1) The Church of the Savior (La Iglesia de El Salvador): Originally a mosque dating from the 9th century, the building became a Christian church in 1159. This medieval church features Visigoth carvings & other archeological remains.

Inside the main church
This visigoth (some believe Paleo-Christian) pilaster is carved with four scenes from the life of Christ.
Into the archaeological footprint of the original mosque…
Climbing down to get out again

2) El Greco’s The Burial of Count of Orgaz in the Church of Santo Tomé (La Iglesia de Santo Tomé)

El Greco’s painting. We couldn’t get into the Church proper… it was locked up!
In a shop window heading to the next stop…

3) The synagogue of Santa María la Blanca (Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca): Recent archaeological research has confirmed the building’s own story that this was the main synagogue in Toledo’s Jewish quarter, dating from the late 12th century. It stopped being used as a synagogue in the 15th century, just a few decades prior to the expulsion of the Jews from Spain, and was converted into the church of Santa María la Blanca.

Inside the Synagogue

4) The San Juan de los Reyes Monastery (El Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes): Spain’s Catholic Monarchs ordered the building of this monastery in thanks for their victory in the battle of Toro. The monastery is dedicated to Saint John the Evangelist, the object of Queen Isabel’s personal devotion.

Looking out from the cloisters
The two-level cloisters surround
beautiful gardens.
Into the monastery chapel
Looking down from the 2nd tier of the cloister
Walking the 2nd tier
Views of the chapel from the balcony – view forward
… view back
The statues around this outside door of the Monastery are missing their hands due to a combination of historical wartime devastation (Napoleonic Wartime Damage 1808) and natural structural fragility.
Walking to the next venue…
… ditto

5) Royal College of Noble Maidens (Real Colegio de Doncellas Nobles): The institution was founded by the Archbishop of Toledo and Cardinal Juan Martínez Siliceo in 1551.

It was an educational institution that sought christian and academic training, as well as the integral promotion of women. The schoolgirls belonged to humble families and some of the nobility. At the moment the King of Spain is co-patron.

Into the chapel
In the cloister … fancy a Coke? 😳
Flemish tapestries
The cloister garden
How’s this for a marmalade pan Lynn?
Staircase going somewhere 😬

6) The Jesuit Church (La Iglesia de los Jesuita): The Society of Jesus Jesuits) began the construction of this church in 1629 and finished it in 1765 due to conflicts with Church administration.

Like many parts of the city… under renovation
Looking down to the altar from the choir/organ loft
This is a bell wheel (known in Spanish as a rueda de campanas), a traditional liturgical signal instrument
Climbing the tower (yellow arrow to him)
View over the Cathedral (central spire) and the Alcázar of Toledo, the imposing stone fortress on the left.
Looking back over the church’s cupola

7) The mosque of Cristo de la Luz (La Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz): This 1000+ year old building originally consisted of a mosque or small prayer chamber from the Caliphate period. This was transformed into a church two centuries later, when the apse was added.

Waiting to enter…
Inside the mosque
Looking up at the ceiling
The Apse
The building is surrounded by a large terrace and beautiful garden and a portion of the Arab wall that leads to the Puerta del Sol, offering splendid views of the city. Roman remains were discovered in the northern part of these gardens in 2006, including a Roman road of large granite slabs.
Puerta del Sol

8) Toledo Cathedral: is one of the three 13th-century High Gothic cathedral in Spain and is considered by some authorities to be the magnum opus of the Gothic style in Spain. It is also the Primate Cathedral of Toledo – meaning it is the chief church of the ecclesiastical province and the seat of the primate – the archbishop who holds a position of historical pre-eminence or honor over other bishops and archbishops in a country or region.

The building is spectacular and my photos unfortunately just don’t do it any justice.

In the choir
Front altar
The glass-paneled reliquary urn (châsse) holding the remains of Saint Ursula (Santa Úrsula) inside the central crypt beneath the High Altar of the Primate Cathedral of Toledo
The Great Monstrance of the Cathedral of Toledo (Custodia de Enrique de Arfe), a masterpiece of late Gothic and Renaissance goldsmithing. It stands roughly 3 meters (9.8 feet) tall and weighs over 250 kilograms of silver and 18 kilograms of gold.
Amazing artwork on the cloister
… and in a side chapel off the cloister

Today’s quirks:

Worlds smallest window: according to Atlas Obscura and the Guinness Book of Records
Statue of Miguel de Cervantes: unveiled in late 2005 / 2006 to mark the 400th anniversary of the publication of the first part of Don Quixote. He stands just off…
… Plaza de Zocodover, the historic main square of Toledo

Nun’s marzipan: Handmade marzipan has been made by cloistered nuns in Toledo since the 13th century. Available at a number of places around Toledo, we headed to the original… the Monasterio de San Clemente el Real and the historic birthplace of Toledo marzipan to buy some.

The Monasterio de San Clemente el Real… note the sign (yellow arrow)
What the sign said
What we bought

And a sad reminder on the City Hall…

This black ribbon banner on the facade of the Ayuntamiento de Toledo is an official symbol of mourning for the victims of the tragic railway accident in Urda (Toledo) on October 28th.
The Government of Spain declared three days of official mourning (from October 29 to 31)… I was so tired yesterday I didn’t even notice it 😔
Heading out for tea tonight
I had a plate of delicious Pisto Manchego (vegetable stew with fried egg) at the same place we ate at last night (Café del Kasco)
After dinner drinks on the way home at a buzzy little cocktail bar called Taberna el Botero
A couple of glasses of very nice red from Toledo and we were ready for bed… we asked about eating there tomorrow night but the restaurant doesn’t open until 9pm… as I said we’re ready for bed (8.30pm)

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