Another tough travel day (… well tough compared to most other days). We left home at 8am this morning and arrived in Cordoba (350km/215miles away) … 12 hours later. It’s a difficult transfer by train anyway as you have to return to Madrid and then head south from there on another line. However, it was on that other line that the crash (red arrow on map) occurred earlier this week … so all those trains are now canceled. We were able to book a bus alternative but had a 5 hour transit in a fairly boring suburb of Madrid, then a 4.5 hour bus ride to Córdoba.
But we’re here now and looking forward to getting into the sightseeing tomorrow (after we sort out our next transfer 🫣)
For context, Spain has the largest high-speed rail network in Europe and the second-largest globally (behind China), spanning over 3,500 of high-speed tracks within a total national rail infrastructure of roughly 16,000 kilometers managed by Adif (government authority). Just goes to show that size doesn’t mean quality, with the drivers’ strike earlier this week over concerns about safety and two major crashes this year alone. That said, all things considered, we’re still happy to travel by train here.
Before I start today’s blog… in case you missed the late addition to yesterday’s…
My zipline run … feeling pretty pumped
Back to today…
Our Toledo Hotel, Hotel Santa IsabelThe Paradore on the hilltop as we left the Old TownToledo Train StationBeautiful… including the ceilingEven the toilets are impressiveOn the train, heading into Madrid (about 40 minutes from Toledo)Luggage into a locker at EstacionSur de Autobuses de Madrid (Madrid South Bus Station… so much nicer in Spanish)Off for a walk… local weekend marketsWith beer on tap!Into Parque Enrique Tierno GalvánEurasian magpie (Pica pica)“Tap and ride” e-mopedA sign (Google translated) in a cafe window… another impact of the train crashLunch in a seedy looking cafe (cerveceria) that was actually really goodPower bank phone charger rental station… common in Spain but I haven’t seen them at homeAt the bus station… a total sh*tshow getting on the bus. It appears they have (unsurprisingly) put on multiple extra buses to replace the trains but it’s totally disorganised. Three buses all leaving for Cordoba at the same time, by the same company with no accurate distinguishing information on any of them!!! Combine that with not understanding a word of what the drivers are shouting at everyone it was all getting a bit stressful as we were directed to 3 different buses, then back to the 1st one… which was the correct one!On board at last… full house!Squeezy… no extra leg room hereAt a pit stop about 2-hours in and then another longer break 15 minutes later. There’s no loo on our bus, I assume they’re just putting anything with wheels on the road to meet demand. Ordinarily there are 35-45 trains per day to Córdoba… that’s a lot of buses! View from the 2nd pit stopEventually made it!! After a 600m walk to the hotel, checked in Spanish style, we then dumped our bags and headed to a tapas bar next door for tea. A great atmosphere, cold drinks and ok food… perfect!
