A last minute decision last night saw us heading to Estació de França for an organised half-day tour to Montserrat. After originally planning to do it independently, the complex logistics (and we’re pretty experienced travellers!) and inability to secure tickets to hear the famous Boys Choir made the choice a no brainer! And wow, was it worth it. Montserrat is one of the most impressive towns I’ve visited… geographically jaw dropping, architecturally astounding and musically exceptional.
Halloween is everywhere here… surprisingly The foyer of Estació de FrançaL’Estació Espai Gastronòmic restaurant off the foyer… we’ll return later Inside the stationThe rear of the station
The bus trip took about 90 minutes to reach the Montserrat National Park which incorporates the Monserrat Mountain Range. Montserrat means “serrated” in Catalan, inspired by the profile of the mountains. Monserrat is also the site of the Benedictine abbey, the Santa Maria de Montserrat… our destination today.
With Roberto, our guideArriving at the Monastery complex
Views out… the arrow points to the Cross of Saint Michael (Creu de Sant Miquel), a large iron cross perched on a rocky outcrop at an elevation of 762 meters… and is described easily reachable “At a leisurely pace, this walk should take about 40 minutes round trip, with the return being quicker and easier as it is downhill.” Unfortunately we didn’t have time today…
… instead we took the (Swiss-made) funicular to the top of the mountain…
It’s steep …the info board states: The Sant Joan Funicular is a total of 498 m long and climbs 248 m, with a maximum gradient of 65.2%. The bottom station is at an altitude of 722 m, and the top at 970m.
Selfie from the topLooking down at the Monastery complex Looking across above the Monastery we could see two further buildings (see red arrows) clinging to the rock face… no idea what they are, but look very tricky to get to!A snack on returning to the monastery level from the food markets there … Mató is a traditional fresh, unsalted Catalan cheese with a soft, fluffy texture and a delicate dairy flavor, often served in a small cup or jar (vaset) topped with honey. (It tasted very similar to ricotta)Looking down at the cable car system (Aeri de Monserrat), theoretically an alternative to the busInside the exterior courtyard of the Monastery Into the interior courtyard of the MonasteryThe original monastery door … reportedly 1000 years oldReference to the Caminos in one of the alcoves Into the BasillicaThe Black Virgin (zoomed from the back of the congregation!) She is on display in the window above the altar, and open to pilgrims… for a price.
The Montserrat website states: The image of Our Lady of Montserrat, popularly known as La Moreneta (the Dark One), due to the dark colour of Her skin, is a truly beautiful 12th century Romanesque polychrome carving. Pope Leo XIII proclaimed Our Lady of Montserrat Patron Saint of Catalonia in 1881.
In 1947, the image was enthroned in a silver altarpiece, paid for by popular subscription and installed in the upper section of the basilica apse.
Roberto, our guide, told us She has been revered for centuries for supposed healing powers and miracles.
The Montserrat Boys Choir (Escolania)
The internationally acclaimed Escolania of Montserrat, which belongs to the Monastery of Montserrat, is one of the oldest boys choirs in Europe. Records show that the Escolania has existed as a religious and musical institution since the 14th century. It is composed of more than fifty boys, from ages nine to fourteen. As well as their general education, they have a special focus on music. Each student must study two instruments; the piano, as well as a second orchestral instrument of their choice.(Wiki)
Looking up from the car park as we reboarded the bus… one of those precarious buildings spotted previously from the topViews as we drove outBack in Barcelona… the Montjuic cemetery. Roberto says it holds over one million souls.Back inside L’Estacio for lunch… €15.90 Menu del Dia… proof that you can eat well and relatively cheaply in BarcelonaThe menuSalad starterGrilled salmon with honey Grilled beef with side dish We found a new bar tonight… Bistro SantsIt’s tragic when your beer is sooo big (1litre) you have to take your face to the beer and not vice-versa! 🤦 his defence: “I’m only having one drink tonight”… ahhh Garyland, a mystical place.Tapas tea… mushroom croquetas (back) and fried eggplant with honey and romanesca. Very tasty, but fried… lots of the tapas here seems to be and/or served with bread.
